This post is also available in:
Day 3: The First Proper TET Day – From Savona via Enduro Race to the Alta Via del Sale
The next morning, our TET adventure truly began. We started early in Ormea, rode through Altare to Savona – right to the Mediterranean Sea. Under the palm trees, just a few meters above the beach umbrellas of the holidaymakers, we stopped our motorcycles, took a few starting photos, and dodged the garbage trucks already cleaning the promenade in the early morning hours. Then we turned around, and our TET began for us – again, this time in the right direction, unlike last year when we had traveled from east to west.
In Altare, we turned onto the small, narrow roads that led us deep into the mountains. Here, our real TET experience started: 80 kilometers of forest trails over hills with breathtaking views, through dense forests, on steep gravel paths with roots and loose rocks. Sometimes the path lay in bright sunlight, other times it disappeared in thick fog, obscuring our view of the surrounding peaks.
Back on the road, we passed through Ormea and continued to Ponte di Nava. Shortly after, the off-road section began again. This led us steadily uphill toward Colle del Garezzo. At some point, we descended to a T-junction and were surprised to find many enduro riders (from hard to large) on the move – unusual for this area. It looked like we had accidentally stumbled into an enduro event or a massive group ride! By coincidence, they were heading in our direction, so we joined them and rode at their pace (or a little faster, as eating dust was part of the deal). When we saw a photographer standing by the roadside, and certainly upon reaching the pass itself, it became clear – we had ridden into a race. At the top, dozens of enduro bikes (with race numbers) were waiting for the track to be cleared so they could head down in the opposite direction. They even gave us the link to the photographer, who had indeed captured us on camera.
We continued on rocky trails, always following the border between France and Italy. Uncertainty about the opening times of the Alta Via del Sale the next day drove us forward. The internet had mentioned time slots, but the weather made planning difficult, and we were still early in the season. So we decided to ride to the entrance of the famous Salt Road and figure it out on the spot.
The final kilometers were particularly challenging: extremely steep, littered with large gravel sections. We seriously wondered if we would make it at this pace. Then an Italian came along – he spoke neither German nor English, but we knew just enough Italian to communicate the essentials: that there were only about 10 kilometers to the pass summit and just 2–3 kilometers of this terrible section left. With renewed energy, we continued uphill until the path actually improved.
At the entrance to the Alta Via del Sale, a calendar confirmed that the road would be open tomorrow. Relieved, we turned back and first descended a loose and relatively steep gravel road into the valley until we hit asphalt, then continued via Upega back to Ormea (about 30 minutes).
The final meters to the hotel turned into a race against time. The clouds that had followed us all day as fog began to release their first drops. We just managed to reach the parking lot as a heavy downpour began. We still managed to get inside relatively dry.
Dinner was a delight: I had green linguini with sauce and porcini mushrooms, while Junior had gnocchi with meat sauce – both excellent. The service was friendly, and the hotel high up in the mountains was almost empty. But then again, we were still very early in the season.
Tired from the long ride, we went to bed as the rain drummed against the windows.
