The Assietta was blocked off. Supposedly because construction works\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIn any case, these seemingly endless Italian litanies\u2014which feel like they\u2019re on 200 extra sheets of paper next to a no-entry sign\u2014don\u2019t really help clarify things. \ud83d\ude09
Should we give it a try anyway? Yeah. Maybe we\u2019ll manage to get past it.
So we drive about eight kilometers along the road from east to west until we come across a strategically parked excavator that makes it impossible for us to get around it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
OK. So back we go, and as an alternative, we\u2019ll take the Colle delle Finestre. Further along, the road turns to asphalt, but remains interesting due to the tight, stacked hairpin turns. And so we return to civilization near Susa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At least it\u2019s a good opportunity to fill up on gas before continuing on to Oulx. There, we load our luggage into the van\u2014a decision that, as it would later turn out, was both wise and foolish\u2014and otherwise head straight on toward Colle del Sommeiller.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The route passes Bardonecchia and heads down into the valley toward the pass access road. Roadwork forces us through the charming village of Rochemolles, whose narrow streets are extremely narrow and steep at the same time. EWe can still swerve to the side a little bit, but then that\u2019s really it. Since that went so well, we decide on the way back to tackle the Jafferau as well. There were a few things we should have considered, though:<\/p>\n\n\n\n But we were so caught up in the excitement of the final that none of that really crossed our minds\u2014or maybe we just didn\u2019t want to acknowledge it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The next warning sign came in the form of an unexpectedly large number of large enduro bikes of various classes coming toward us on the lower section. So we chugged up the mountain until we reached a dip with a snowfield about ten meters long that was blocking the path. A few large enduro bikes were already parked in front of it, their riders wondering what to do. As expected\u2014since it was a ski slope\u2014the trail became steeper and rockier. The thin air was starting to take its toll, so we stopped briefly to catch our breath. The emergency rations were in our luggage, though. And our luggage was\u2014mostly\u2014in the van. The trail looked somewhat passable again, so we kept going. Es war steil, auch wenn es hier nicht so aussieht :-\/<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n For the next hour and a half to two hours, we were busy getting the motorcycles across that stretch. At some point, we finally got my motorcycle to the point where even the rear wheel was out of the snow. Our saviors were three Bavarians on leaner Kawasaki enduro bikes who were heading downhill. And after that, she wasn\u2019t turned off again. So we continued on the rest of the way without any problems\u2014and pretty much on our own\u2014enjoying the view and briefly considering which descent route to take. After about three kilometers of downhill driving, the moment had finally arrived. After that, we continued on to the second and final snowfield, which I already knew from my last visit after the WIMA Rally in France. And now I was standing there again. Junior drove up, and I was in \u201cwatch and learn\u201d mode. \ud83d\ude09<\/p>\n\n\n\n He managed it with ease: both going downhill, using all the brakes, and taking a running start through the swamp below the snowfield. He had enough momentum and traction for the subsequent uphill climb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Well, then.<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the engine idling\u2014because it absolutely couldn\u2019t stall\u2014and with all the brakes engaged, I slid down the winding path. Once we were back on relatively solid ground, Junior\u2019s asthma flared up and we had to make a proper stop so he could catch his breath. At the next supermarket, we made the much-needed stop to replenish our energy reserves.
This one is also gravel-covered, but so early in the season it\u2019s covered with very fine grit on a rather hard surface. It feels like black ice, even on our enduro bikes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
After that, the road climbs higher and higher, bit by bit, without any major incidents. The road is gravel, but easy to drive on. It finally ends at about 2,900 meters in front of a vast snowfield.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
That was to be expected this early in the year. And actually, the fact that we made it up to this altitude at all speaks to the low amount of precipitation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
That means: climbing up via the ski slope and then descending via the flatter route down to Salbertrand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
We interpreted that as, \u201cHooray, the trail is clear!\u201d and not as, \u201cAh, OK\u2014they\u2019re coming back.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
However, there was a relatively flat, soggy path through the slush.
I took the path with some momentum and made it through without any major problems.
So, of course, there was no reason not to keep going.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the next snowfield, there was only a detour to the side, which could be skied with momentum at least halfway across. For the rest of the way, we had to push and work our way up. The loose snow, combined with the steep slope, simply couldn’t be conquered without momentum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Now we were also starting to feel the effects of our light breakfast. And since we hadn\u2019t really eaten anything else all day, it slowly dawned on us: A little sugar would have been fantastic right now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But oh well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Until we came to a snow slab\u2014maybe six or seven meters long\u2014that was blocking the path once more.
This time, the trail wasn\u2019t flat\u2014it went uphill, which unfortunately isn\u2019t really visible in the photo.
No slush, just snow and ice. And us\u2014just us.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/span>
Junior\u2019s motorcycle went along fairly quickly. Mine, however\u2014because it was a bit heavier and because we were getting more tired by then\u2014but possibly also because of the TKC80\u00b2\u2019s unsuitable\/fatiguing tread pattern\u2014took forever and pushed us both to the brink of exhaustion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
And that\u2019s exactly when the battery died. Or, as it turned out later, the starter relay.
All that repeated trying to start it on the snowfield had taken its toll.
So even the jumper cables we\u2019d brought along didn\u2019t help.
Though it was a challenge in itself to position the other enduro bike so that it could even jump-start us.
But the two of us didn\u2019t have the strength left to hoist my KTM up that steep path so we could roll it downhill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
They helped us push my KTM up to the next hairpin turn. There, with the fuse for the headlight pulled, I was able to roll it downhill, and thank goodness, the engine started right up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
That cleared that hurdle, but according to the information from the Bavarians, two more snowfields were still ahead of us. These were located on the descent toward Salbertrand, which they could bypass by going uphill.
Her skeptical look at our machines, however, spoke volumes. Never mind.
We were here now, and according to her, the rest of the route to Forte Jafferau was clear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
I was in favor of the descent to Salbertrand, which I was already mostly familiar with. It was flatter, and we could decide how to proceed once we reached the first snowfield. You could already see the first snowfield from the fort.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
The snowfield came into view. And we confidently drove around it, passing through the marshy terrain below.
For me, though, there was always that thought in the back of my mind: If I stall the engine now, that\u2019s it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It was lying there practically exactly as it had back then and offered the exact same alternative detour\u2014but this time, however in opposite direction.
Last time, I had refused to ride that section. At the time, the thought of trying it alone had seemed too crazy to me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
And then, with a bold push of the gas and a \u201cclose your eyes and go for it\u201d attitude, back up again.
We both breathed a huge sigh of relief. Because from that point on, it was clear: we had the road to ourselves.
Next came the curved tunnel before Forte Pramand, which is very dark even with the lights on. This time, Junior had to light the way for me; my fuse was still blown because I\u2019d been (pointlessly) charging the battery\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
The drop in adrenaline and\/or low blood sugar had probably triggered it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This time, we picked up sugar-laden sodas and small granola bars so we could both get some energy back. And my engine was running the whole time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n